Tank shift conversion

[JDC22]

Just wondering how difficult it would be to convert my 59 pan from foot shift to tank shift? What kind of parts do I need, and do I need to find a tank shift left tank, or can a shifter gate be welded onto the eixsting tank (if I can't find a correct one?) Just wondering, as I enjoy hand shifting my Indian and the clutch/mousetrap mechanism on the pan doesn't thrill me much. If anyone has any thoughts,or experience doing this conversion, drop me a line. Thanks!!!

Joel

[koanes]

Joel, Its an easy conversion and the parts shouldn't be too difficult to find. Tank shift left for 59-60 seems to be fairly common. Not a good idea to modify your present tank. Any 4-spd hand shift lid from 47 up will fit your application. A lid in good condition should be priced at 50.00-100.00. The shift forks should be shimmed to match the lid, not a big deal. Rocker clutch and rod are easy to get as well. Shift gate, lever, and rod are probably better bought reproduction. Hang on to your original parts. Remember, you are just a temporary caretaker, the machine will outlast all of us.

[JDC22]

Thanks...if you or anyone has a list of parts that I would need (other than the tanks) let me know. I will begin the search shortly, although I don't anticipate converting until the winter when the bike is off the road.

Thanks again
Joel

[T. Cotten]

For some reason, the Factory also spec'd a bronze-bushed thirdgear and matching cluster for handshifts, but re-designed to accompany the ratchet lid. The handshift gear design was retained at least through '65.

Apparently the lids are often interchanged without a problem, so I must ask if anyone knows why the bushed gear design wasn't dropped?

[koanes]

The bushed 3rd was used in all 4spds till 59 when they eliminated the bushing.

[T. Cotten]

But Kyle!

All of the tankshift '65s still had them.
(I've encountered at least four.)

[JDC22]

I guess I'll figure out what you're talking about sometime! Do I need a new trans top for the handshift conversion? I assume the clutchpedal's are available, either re-pop or swap? Any parts in the conversion I might have trouble with? It doesn't seem to be a difficult swap if the parts are there? I think the tanks might be the toughest to find, although I assume I can find foot shift tanks and weld the needed tab and such? Will I need to stick with 59-60 tanks as the badges were unique, or can I get the 59 badge ti fit other tanks too?

Lastly, if anyone has a detailed description of the parts and the steps, or knows where they might be found, I'm all ears!

Thanks...I'll keep enjoying this thread and taking notes!

Joel

PS- If anyone has a spare handshift set of tanks let me know.

[Kojack]

The shift gate bolts to nuts that are welded and recessed into the side of the tank. If you want things to look original you'll do best to use a handshift tank and factory parts. If you're not worried about originality, you can do it a lot of different ways. You could even use the 70s style shift setup that didn't use a gate and, I believe, worked with the ratchet top. Harley and the aftermarket make emblem mounts that use a double sided trim tape to attach to the tank, they look pretty good. The aftermarket also makes a shift lever that bolts directly to the transmission if you want a shifter under your left cheek, chopper style.

[koanes]

Tom, I have never seen a tank shift 65 that was not a 3+reverse bike for side car use. No doubt a person could order one that way, but it would be uncommon for sure. I think some HD engineer decided to put the counterbore in the clustergear and add some length to stabilize the gear a bit. I bet the 65's you have run into were retired police machines that had been bought up by a dealer and converted to the 4spd. He probably had a shelf full of the old cluster-3rd gear combos to use up. Hows that for a theory? Joel, what does the 59 look like now? If it is fairly stock I would suggest you pursue the correct parts. Its hard to make a 59 look better than it did when it rolled out the factory doors.

[JDC22]

Thanks for the great info- the bike is in very original condition (other than paint which is about 20 years old, but not original- this winter I intend to clean it up and re-paint with original paint and panels) and I want to maintain that, as I try to do with the other bikes I own. I prefer them as near stock as possible, although I am not anal about 100 point restoration and don't aspire to that level of perfection-I just prefer them basic and more or less authentic. I am looking for original hand shift tanks that will work (HINT- if anybody has any out there get in touch) as I do not intend to mar the original tanks I have...but I'll see what I come up with searching the net and swaps around WMass as I don't want to pay an arm and a leg, but fair value is fine. I am hoping I can obtain all the other parts I need through the usual sources, as I garner it's not too many parts, although still hoping someone will post or e-mail me a good list of stuff. Thanks for all of the help guys! As usual I have been getting great advice over the years from all for many differern marques, which is a great resource to have.

Best,
Joel

[T. Cotten]

Kyle!

3-speed&reverses would have been drilled to accomodate the reverse gear idler shaft, correct?

My four speeds ain't. Not even a plug.

Certainly there were '65 3-sp&reverses also, as I have ridden one (and it ****ed!!) And agreed, the tankshifters were predominately police issue, but those of enforcement history that I've opened, coming from Kansas City, Chicago, and departments unknown, were all 4-speed tankshifts with bronzebushed 3rds.
Converting worn out police warhorses for resale could never have been cost efficient!

Civvy machines that I have opened were all mousetrapped with 'solid' gears, of course.

My contention is that the Factory had some engineering reason to retain the bushing for handshifts.
But apparently it make no difference in actual use.....!?!?

[Kojack]

Here's a link to J&P Cycle's site that show what the hand shift tank looks like so you can see how the hardware for the shift gate and the shift lever itself attaches. They also carry the shift gate and a linkage kit. Lot's of suppliers do. This stuff ain't hard to come by.

http://www.jpcycles.com/productgroup...4-5F132CF203FD

[koanes]

Tom, now you have gone and shot holes in my perfectly good theory. Obviously, if the boss for the reverse idler shaft was uncut, no 3+R trans. It would be interesting to see if the bikes you were working on had some common connection. While you're at at I would love to know why all three of the La Crosse, WI police machines were supplied without a tappet screen, not even a boss there for the plug.

[JDC22]

Kojack- thanks for the info. I've seen some of this stuff in the vintage catalogs, just wondering how hard HD parts are to come by-especially tanks. Thanks for that link, which does show a bunch of the stuff needed and the cost, which helps. What about the trans top? Don't I need to change that? I didn't see that part listed, but it's probably available?

I'll keep my eyes out on e-pay and other sites and swaps to try and find tanks and such. I have a better idea now how to do it and what I need. Thanks again
Joel

[T. Cotten]

Kyle!
Nearly all '65s with 4-digit VINs have a screen and cap; Most 65's with a 5-digit VINs have a welch-plug in the hole, as did early 66s.

I have one of each, but I have never encountered one with without even a boss upon the casting.

65s are the weirdest year. And often the stupidest, like this tappet screen thing itself. So anything is possible.

That's probably why Palmer ignored '65s in his "How to" book.

And Joel!
You will want a handshift lid, of course, which for your year had a neutral switch with a round knob in its center for a terminal. (Beware of reverse lids, usually with an "R" stamped upon the detente boss.)

'59 tanks had the emblems recessed into them, making them hard to fake. Also difficult is faking the shiftgate depression. (Pre-47 tanks are easy!)

But still, any pro metalman should be able to do it to a later set of bobs, and possibly cheaper than the average vintage set will cost (even in rough condition). Yet you would need a set to copy!